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Best TV for PS5 and Xbox Series X in the UK: What Actually Matters
Both consoles top out at 4K/120Hz, which means a lot of the numbers on UK TV listings are irrelevant to you. Here's what to look for instead, how to pick the right size, and the best options at flagship, mid-range and budget money.
Short answer
- Buy for the picture, not the hertz. PS5 and Xbox Series X/S cap out at 120Hz output. Anything rated above that is headroom no console can use today.
- The four things that genuinely matter: a full-bandwidth HDMI 2.1 port for your console, working VRR, ALLM so game mode switches itself on, and decent HDR handling.
- Size beats spec. A 65" Mini LED you sit correctly in front of beats a 55" flagship you sit too far away from.
- Budget 144Hz sets are genuinely good enough for console play — the money saved is usually better spent on size or a soundbar.
- Don't trust a single input lag figure until someone has measured it. We haven't, so we won't quote one.
What your console actually sends to the TV
This is the part that simplifies the whole decision. PS5 and Xbox Series X both connect over HDMI 2.1 and can output up to 4K at 120Hz. Xbox Series S is positioned lower, typically targeting 1440p. Both families support VRR (variable refresh rate) and ALLM (auto low latency mode), and both handle HDR — PS5 games use HDR10, while Xbox Series X/S additionally supports Dolby Vision.
Two consequences follow. First, a TV rated at 144Hz or 165Hz is not going to make your console smoother, because the console never asks for more than 120Hz. Second, because the PS5 relies on HDR10, the TV's own tone mapping matters more: there's no Dolby Vision metadata to lean on, so how the set handles bright highlights and dark scenes is down to its processing.
That's the whole argument in one paragraph. Everything else on the box — the enormous refresh numbers, the gaming marketing badges — is either already covered or irrelevant to a console-only setup.
The four specs worth checking before you buy
1. A full-bandwidth HDMI 2.1 port
4K at 120Hz needs real bandwidth, and not every HDMI socket on a TV provides it. Plenty of sets offer four ports where only one or two are full spec. If you're connecting a console plus a soundbar, or a console plus a PC, check the specification list on the retailer page for how many high-bandwidth inputs there are — this is the single most common source of "why is my PS5 stuck at 60Hz?" frustration.
2. VRR
Variable refresh rate lets the TV follow the console's frame rate instead of forcing the console to match the TV. When a game's frame rate wobbles, VRR is what stops that turning into visible stutter or tearing. For how smooth a game feels, VRR matters more than the maximum refresh rate on the box.
3. ALLM
Auto low latency mode switches the TV into its game preset automatically when it detects a console. Without it you're relying on remembering to change picture mode every time, and the non-game modes usually add processing that makes controls feel heavier. It's a small feature with a daily payoff.
4. Sensible HDR handling
Most TVs now accept an HDR signal; far fewer handle it well. The console will run an HDR calibration routine at setup, but if a TV crushes shadow detail or blows out highlights in HDR, no amount of calibration fully fixes it. This is exactly the kind of thing that needs measuring, and it's on our list rather than in this article.
Refresh rate: how much is too much?
| Rating | What it means for console | When it's worth paying for |
|---|---|---|
| 60Hz | Fine for most games, but you lose the 120Hz modes some titles offer | Only if budget is the absolute constraint |
| 120Hz | Matches the maximum output of PS5 and Xbox Series X | The sensible target for a console-first TV |
| 144Hz | Above what any console outputs; extra headroom for VRR | Cheap future-proofing, common at budget prices |
| 165Hz | Unused on console entirely | PC gaming with a fast graphics card, or long-term ownership |
The practical takeaway: treat 120Hz as the requirement and everything above it as a bonus you shouldn't pay a premium for. If you're choosing between a 144Hz set and a 165Hz set at similar money for a console-only household, spend the difference on the bigger screen instead.
We've gone into the 144Hz vs 165Hz question in more depth elsewhere — see our U7Q vs U7S PRO gaming comparison for the side-by-side.
Picks by budget
We only link to products where we hold a tracked affiliate link, so not every size of every range appears below. If your size isn't listed, check current UK availability directly — stock in this segment moves quickly.
Flagship: U8Q — for bright rooms and long ownership
The step up here is about picture quality rather than gaming features: the flagship Mini LED range is aimed at buyers who want HDR to have real impact in a normal British living room, including one with windows. If you're buying a TV you expect to keep for six or seven years, and you use it for film and sport as much as gaming, this is where the extra money goes.
Mid-range: U7S PRO — the mainstream gaming sizes
This is the range built around the sizes most UK buyers actually choose, with a higher refresh rating than the value tier. If you want the console features covered above without paying flagship money, and you're buying 55", 65" or 75", start here.
Value: U7Q — including a rare 50" option
The value route keeps the gaming essentials and trims the panel spec. It's the sensible answer for a bedroom, a study or a second room, and it includes a genuinely compact 50" size that most gaming ranges have abandoned — ideal if you sit close and play competitively.
Budget: E78 PRO and Q8 — 144Hz on a real budget
If the budget is firm, this tier is where console gaming becomes genuinely affordable without giving up 120Hz-and-above refresh or the Mini LED-style backlight story. The trade-offs are in peak brightness, dimming precision and build rather than in the gaming feature set — which is the right way round for a console-first buyer.
Choosing the size: measure first, buy second
Sit where you normally sit and measure from your eyes to the wall where the TV will go. For 4K, a widely used rule of thumb is roughly 1.2 to 1.5 times the screen diagonal. That puts a 55" set right for about 5.5 to 7 feet, 65" for 6.5 to 8 feet and 75" for 7.5 to 9 feet. We've published a fuller walkthrough in our UK viewing distance and size guide.
Gaming adds one wrinkle. Competitive multiplayer players usually want to sit closer and go slightly smaller, so the whole screen fits comfortably in their field of view. Story-led, cinematic games reward going larger. If your household does both, size for the room and sit a bit closer when you're playing ranked.
Also worth deciding before you order: whether the TV is going on a stand or a wall. A wall-mounted set sits further above eye level in many UK rooms, which is fine for casual viewing and less comfortable for long sessions.
Setup checklist for the day it arrives
- Use the right HDMI port. The full-bandwidth input is often labelled, but not always. If your console won't enable 120Hz mode, try another port before assuming the TV doesn't support it.
- Run the console's HDR calibration rather than accepting the defaults. It takes two minutes and fixes the most common complaint — HDR that looks washed out or too dark.
- Turn on VRR and ALLM in the TV's settings. Some sets ship with them off or buried in a game-mode menu.
- Switch to game mode (or confirm ALLM did it for you) and check whether motion smoothing is disabled — it adds lag and most players dislike it.
- Keep the firmware updated. VRR behaviour and 120Hz compatibility are both things manufacturers have improved after launch in the past.
- Check eARC on the port you plan to use if a soundbar follows later.
What we can't tell you yet
We're being explicit because guessing would be worse than useless. We have not measured any of the TVs on this page, so we can't give verified figures for input lag in game mode — the number console gamers care about most — nor for peak or sustained brightness, contrast, colour coverage, HDR tone mapping quality, or how each set handles reflections in a bright room.
What this page can do is narrow the decision using things that are verifiable before you buy: panel type, refresh rating, size coverage, connectivity and room fit. Once our testing is running, this guide will be updated with measured results and the rankings may change. We'll date the change when it happens.
FAQ
Do I need a 120Hz TV for PS5 or Xbox Series X?
A 120Hz-capable TV is the right target if you want to use the high-frame-rate modes some games offer. Both consoles can output up to 4K at 120Hz, but plenty of games run at 60Hz or below, so a 120Hz panel is a sensible ceiling rather than a hard requirement. Anything rated above that is headroom no current console can use.
Is 144Hz or 165Hz worth paying extra for on a console TV?
Only if you also game on a PC with a powerful graphics card. Neither PS5 nor Xbox outputs above 120Hz, so the extra refresh rate goes unused on console. It can be reasonable future-proofing, but it shouldn't be the reason you spend more — size and picture quality will do more for you.
What is VRR and do I need it for console gaming?
Variable refresh rate lets the TV match its refresh rate to whatever frame rate the console is producing, reducing stutter and tearing when performance dips. Both PS5 and Xbox Series X/S support it, and in our view it affects how smooth a game feels more than a higher maximum refresh rate does.
Does the PS5 support Dolby Vision?
PS5 games use HDR10. Xbox Series X and S additionally support Dolby Vision. In practice an Xbox can use a TV's Dolby Vision mode, while a PS5 depends on the TV's own HDR10 tone mapping — which makes the quality of that tone mapping more important if you're on PlayStation.
How many HDMI 2.1 ports do I need?
At least one for the console, and ideally two if you also connect a PC or a second console. The number of full-bandwidth ports varies by model and screen size, so check the retailer specification rather than assuming every HDMI port on the TV is identical.
What size TV is best for gaming?
Measure from your seating position to the wall and aim for roughly 1.2 to 1.5 times the screen diagonal for 4K. That puts a 55" set at about 5.5 to 7 feet, 65" at 6.5 to 8 feet and 75" at 7.5 to 9 feet. Competitive players often sit closer and prefer smaller screens; cinematic single-player games reward going larger.
Do I need a soundbar for console gaming?
Not to begin with, but built-in TV speakers are usually the weakest part of any television. If you play story-led games or stream a lot on the same screen, a soundbar is the most noticeable upgrade you can add later. Check the TV has an HDMI port with eARC before you buy one.
Should I wait for Black Friday to buy a gaming TV in the UK?
UK TV prices do move around promotional periods, but the most popular sizes tend to sell out before they reach their lowest prices. If you find the size you need at a price you can afford, buying is reasonable. Waiting only really pays off if you're flexible about the exact model.
Related reading
- Hisense U7Q vs U7S PRO: which gaming TV should you buy? — the 144Hz vs 165Hz question in detail
- UK TV viewing distance & size guide — measure your room before you choose a screen
- Hisense U8Q flagship guide — if you're considering the step up
- RGB Mini LED explained — the next panel technology reaching UK shelves